Camino Francés · stage 30 of 33

Portomarín to Palas de Rei

Gratitude

Distance
24.8 km
Climb
519 m up, 353 m down
Ground
350 to 725 m
Time
6 to 7 hours
Difficulty
moderate
Underfoot
dirt, gravel, paved
Two maps

Where this day sits on the Camino Francés

Above, the highest and lowest ground of each of its 33 stages. Below, the word each day is given.

TERRAIN500 m1,000 m1,500 mhighest ground · 1,505 m100 km200 km300 km400 km500 km600 km700 kmSaint-Jean-Pied-de-PortSantiago de CompostelaINTERIORStage 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. Initiation.InitiationStage 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri. Recovery.RecoveryStage 3: Zubiri to Pamplona. Emergence.EmergenceStage 4: Pamplona to Puente la Reina. Forgiveness.ForgivenessStage 5: Puente la Reina to Estella. Connection.ConnectionStage 6: Estella to Los Arcos. Generosity.GenerosityStage 7: Los Arcos to Logroño. Endurance.EnduranceStage 8: Logroño to Nájera. Rhythm.RhythmStage 9: Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Tradition.TraditionStage 10: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado. Patience.PatienceStage 11: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega. Solitude.SolitudeStage 12: San Juan de Ortega to Burgos. Perspective.PerspectiveStage 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino. Threshold.ThresholdStage 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz. Emptiness.EmptinessStage 15: Castrojeriz to Frómista. Perseverance.PerseveranceStage 16: Frómista to Carrión de los Condes. Surrender.SurrenderStage 17: Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios. Desolation.DesolationStage 18: Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino. Halfway.HalfwayStage 19: Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas. Endlessness.EndlessnessStage 20: Mansilla de las Mulas to León. Reentry.ReentryStage 21: León to San Martín del Camino. Departure.DepartureStage 22: San Martín del Camino to Astorga. Romance.RomanceStage 23: Astorga to Foncebadón. Ascent.AscentStage 24: Foncebadón to Ponferrada. Release.ReleaseStage 25: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. Lightness.LightnessStage 26: Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro. Trust.TrustStage 27: O Cebreiro to Triacastela. Descent.DescentStage 28: Triacastela to Sarria. Threshold of Completion.Threshold of CompletionStage 29: Sarria to Portomarín. Impermanence.ImpermanenceStage 30: Portomarín to Palas de Rei. Gratitude.GratitudeStage 31: Palas de Rei to Arzúa. Grief.GriefStage 32: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo. Vigil.VigilStage 33: O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela. Arrival.Arrival

From open-pilgrimages: each stage's highest and lowest ground and its interior theme.

The day

The rolling Galician hills demand more of your legs than you expected this late in the journey, but your body answers without complaint. The small churches and wayside crosses appear every few kilometers, each one placed by someone who wanted pilgrims to feel accompanied. You begin to notice all the hands that have held this path open for you — the hospitaleros, the farmers who maintain the trail markers, the bar owners who welcome muddy strangers. Gratitude arrives not as an idea but as a physical sensation, a warmth in the chest that has nothing to do with exertion.

What pilgrims often meet here

  • Feeling surprisingly strong despite accumulated fatigue
  • Gratitude toward the people who maintain the Camino
  • Beginning to say goodbye to walking companions
  • Counting remaining days and not wanting them to end

Who has held the path open for you in your life, and have you thanked them?

The ground

Beds: moderate. Water sources: 4. Along the way: atm, pharmacy, grocery, restaurant.

The light

Sunrise and sunset in Portomarín depend on the day you walk.

Plan the light for this stage on Daylight

Walk it with Pilgrim

In Pilgrim's Honor mode you can walk this stage as it is drawn here, and save its maps for days with no signal. The morning opens with this day's word, Gratitude, and its story. When you arrive, it asks the question above, and you can answer out loud. Your walk stays on your phone.

Open this stage in Pilgrim

With Pilgrim on your phone, this opens the stage, ready to begin. Without it, you'll see the stage and where to get the app.

Pilgrim on the App Store · pilgrimapp.org

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