Camino Francés · stage 29 of 33

Sarria to Portomarín

Impermanence

Distance
22.2 km
Climb
398 m up, 457 m down
Ground
350 to 550 m
Time
5 to 7 hours
Difficulty
moderate
Underfoot
dirt, forest, gravel
Two maps

Where this day sits on the Camino Francés

Above, the highest and lowest ground of each of its 33 stages. Below, the word each day is given.

TERRAIN500 m1,000 m1,500 mhighest ground · 1,505 m100 km200 km300 km400 km500 km600 km700 kmSaint-Jean-Pied-de-PortSantiago de CompostelaINTERIORStage 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. Initiation.InitiationStage 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri. Recovery.RecoveryStage 3: Zubiri to Pamplona. Emergence.EmergenceStage 4: Pamplona to Puente la Reina. Forgiveness.ForgivenessStage 5: Puente la Reina to Estella. Connection.ConnectionStage 6: Estella to Los Arcos. Generosity.GenerosityStage 7: Los Arcos to Logroño. Endurance.EnduranceStage 8: Logroño to Nájera. Rhythm.RhythmStage 9: Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Tradition.TraditionStage 10: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado. Patience.PatienceStage 11: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega. Solitude.SolitudeStage 12: San Juan de Ortega to Burgos. Perspective.PerspectiveStage 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino. Threshold.ThresholdStage 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz. Emptiness.EmptinessStage 15: Castrojeriz to Frómista. Perseverance.PerseveranceStage 16: Frómista to Carrión de los Condes. Surrender.SurrenderStage 17: Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios. Desolation.DesolationStage 18: Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino. Halfway.HalfwayStage 19: Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas. Endlessness.EndlessnessStage 20: Mansilla de las Mulas to León. Reentry.ReentryStage 21: León to San Martín del Camino. Departure.DepartureStage 22: San Martín del Camino to Astorga. Romance.RomanceStage 23: Astorga to Foncebadón. Ascent.AscentStage 24: Foncebadón to Ponferrada. Release.ReleaseStage 25: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. Lightness.LightnessStage 26: Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro. Trust.TrustStage 27: O Cebreiro to Triacastela. Descent.DescentStage 28: Triacastela to Sarria. Threshold of Completion.Threshold of CompletionStage 29: Sarria to Portomarín. Impermanence.ImpermanenceStage 30: Portomarín to Palas de Rei. Gratitude.GratitudeStage 31: Palas de Rei to Arzúa. Grief.GriefStage 32: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo. Vigil.VigilStage 33: O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela. Arrival.Arrival

From open-pilgrimages: each stage's highest and lowest ground and its interior theme.

The day

The path winds through rural Galicia — oak and chestnut forests, stone hamlets with hórreos standing like small temples to the harvest. The trail is crowded now with pilgrims who started in Sarria, and you must find your peace amid the noise. Portomarín itself was moved stone by stone when a dam flooded the original town. The old bridge emerges when the water is low, a ghost of what was. Everything on this Camino — the friendships, the pain, the beauty — is temporary. Portomarín teaches you to hold things lightly.

What pilgrims often meet here

  • Adjusting to the crowded trail after Sarria
  • The beauty of oak-shaded paths through small hamlets
  • Seeing the drowned old town beneath the reservoir
  • Pre-arrival anxiety beginning to build

What are you holding onto that has already changed its form?

The ground

Rural Galicia — meadows, oak and chestnut forests, small stone villages.

Beds: moderate. Water sources: 4. Along the way: atm, pharmacy, grocery, restaurant.

The light

Sunrise and sunset in Sarria depend on the day you walk.

Plan the light for this stage on Daylight

Walk it with Pilgrim

In Pilgrim's Honor mode you can walk this stage as it is drawn here, and save its maps for days with no signal. The morning opens with this day's word, Impermanence, and its story. When you arrive, it asks the question above, and you can answer out loud. Your walk stays on your phone.

Open this stage in Pilgrim

With Pilgrim on your phone, this opens the stage, ready to begin. Without it, you'll see the stage and where to get the app.

Pilgrim on the App Store · pilgrimapp.org

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