Camino Francés · stage 17 of 33

Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

Desolation

Distance
26.3 km
Climb
105 m up, 51 m down
Ground
830 to 880 m
Time
6 to 7 hours
Difficulty
moderate
Underfoot
dirt, gravel
Two maps

Where this day sits on the Camino Francés

Above, the highest and lowest ground of each of its 33 stages. Below, the word each day is given.

TERRAIN500 m1,000 m1,500 mhighest ground · 1,505 m100 km200 km300 km400 km500 km600 km700 kmSaint-Jean-Pied-de-PortSantiago de CompostelaINTERIORStage 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. Initiation.InitiationStage 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri. Recovery.RecoveryStage 3: Zubiri to Pamplona. Emergence.EmergenceStage 4: Pamplona to Puente la Reina. Forgiveness.ForgivenessStage 5: Puente la Reina to Estella. Connection.ConnectionStage 6: Estella to Los Arcos. Generosity.GenerosityStage 7: Los Arcos to Logroño. Endurance.EnduranceStage 8: Logroño to Nájera. Rhythm.RhythmStage 9: Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Tradition.TraditionStage 10: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado. Patience.PatienceStage 11: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega. Solitude.SolitudeStage 12: San Juan de Ortega to Burgos. Perspective.PerspectiveStage 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino. Threshold.ThresholdStage 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz. Emptiness.EmptinessStage 15: Castrojeriz to Frómista. Perseverance.PerseveranceStage 16: Frómista to Carrión de los Condes. Surrender.SurrenderStage 17: Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios. Desolation.DesolationStage 18: Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino. Halfway.HalfwayStage 19: Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas. Endlessness.EndlessnessStage 20: Mansilla de las Mulas to León. Reentry.ReentryStage 21: León to San Martín del Camino. Departure.DepartureStage 22: San Martín del Camino to Astorga. Romance.RomanceStage 23: Astorga to Foncebadón. Ascent.AscentStage 24: Foncebadón to Ponferrada. Release.ReleaseStage 25: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. Lightness.LightnessStage 26: Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro. Trust.TrustStage 27: O Cebreiro to Triacastela. Descent.DescentStage 28: Triacastela to Sarria. Threshold of Completion.Threshold of CompletionStage 29: Sarria to Portomarín. Impermanence.ImpermanenceStage 30: Portomarín to Palas de Rei. Gratitude.GratitudeStage 31: Palas de Rei to Arzúa. Grief.GriefStage 32: Arzúa to O Pedrouzo. Vigil.VigilStage 33: O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela. Arrival.Arrival

From open-pilgrimages: each stage's highest and lowest ground and its interior theme.

The day

Seventeen kilometers without a village, a bar, a bench, a tree. Just the path and the wheat and the sky. This is the most exposed stretch on the entire Camino. You carry your water and food and yourself across a landscape that offers nothing but distance. The Templars named their settlement here for a reason — this was the frontier, the edge of the known. By the time you reach Terradillos, you understand in your body what 'desert' means, even in the middle of Spain's breadbasket.

What pilgrims often meet here

  • The strange intimacy of walking 17 km without seeing a building
  • Rationing water and feeling genuinely vulnerable
  • A mind that has finally stopped narrating and simply watches
  • Arriving at the tiny village feeling you have crossed something vast

What do you discover about yourself when all external support is removed?

The ground

17 km stretch without any villages after leaving Carrión. Carry sufficient water and food.

  • 17 km without services after Carrión de los Condes. Carry at least 2L of water and food.

Beds: very_low. Water sources: 1. Along the way: restaurant.

The light

Sunrise and sunset in Carrión de los Condes depend on the day you walk.

Plan the light for this stage on Daylight

Walk it with Pilgrim

In Pilgrim's Honor mode you can walk this stage as it is drawn here, and save its maps for days with no signal. The morning opens with this day's word, Desolation, and its story. When you arrive, it asks the question above, and you can answer out loud. Your walk stays on your phone.

Open this stage in Pilgrim

With Pilgrim on your phone, this opens the stage, ready to begin. Without it, you'll see the stage and where to get the app.

Pilgrim on the App Store · pilgrimapp.org

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