Camino Primitivo · stage 2 of 11

Grado to Salas

Climb

Distance
22 km
Climb
720 m up, 560 m down
Ground
76 to 540 m
Time
6 to 8 hours
Difficulty
moderate
Underfoot
dirt, forest, paved, mountain

The day

Today the mountains start. You leave Grado on a steady climb through small Asturian villages — Cabruñana, San Marcelo, La Doriga — each one with a stone church that has stood since the Reconquest. The forest is denser than yesterday. By midday you crest a low pass and look back east to Oviedo's distant hills. The descent into Salas is on cobbled lanes through farmhouses where elderly Asturians watch from doorways and call out 'buen camino' in accents you have never heard. Salas is a quiet medieval town with a tower house in its centre and a stone bridge over the Nonaya river.

What pilgrims often meet here

  • The steady climb out of Grado in the morning cool
  • First small Asturian village stops — coffee from a battered espresso machine
  • Realising the Primitivo is harder than expected
  • Arriving in Salas tired but not exhausted

What does it feel like to be greeted by people whose accent you cannot place?

The ground

Beds: moderate. Water sources: 4. Along the way: atm, pharmacy, grocery, restaurant.

The light

Sunrise and sunset in Grado depend on the day you walk.

Plan the light for this stage on Daylight

Walk it with Pilgrim

Pilgrim doesn't carry the Camino Primitivo as a route yet. You can still walk it with the app in Wander mode, speaking what arises and keeping it on your phone.

Pilgrim on the App Store · pilgrimapp.org

Lately on this road