The Primitivo Is Being Redrawn in Galicia
On Tuesday the Diario Oficial de Galicia published the Xunta’s final approval of a project with an unlovely name — the layout and construction of common stretches of the Camino Primitivo — and a plain meaning: about twenty pieces of the route through Galicia are going to be built again, on a new line.
The facts are short. The Consello da Xunta approved the project on 5 October. Publication on 3 November made it official. The stretches sit in seven municipalities: A Fonsagrada, Baleira, Lugo, Guntín, Palas de Rei, Toques and Melide. The stated reason is road safety: the safety of people on foot wherever the Camino and the traffic meet. The approval declares the works of public utility and the land necessary to take, around 300 properties in all, and gives the affected councils a year to bring their planning into line. It sits inside a wider plan of up to 40 million euros across more than 150 kilometres of the main routes, and the date everyone in the announcement is pointing at is the 2027 Holy Year.
What none of the reports gives is a start date for the works.
If you are walking this winter, a gazette changes nothing under your feet. The winter does. From November the Primitivo is a winter route: seasonal albergues cut back or close, some from mid-October until around Easter, and snow can cover the Hospitales and the Puerto del Palo. Plan stage by stage, ring ahead, and treat the high ground as a decision you make on the morning, not weeks ahead.
If you are walking in the Holy Year, the picture is less tidy. The whole reason for the project is 2027, so somewhere between now and then some twenty pieces of the line will be in one of three states — old, under works, or new — and you will not know which from home. A guidebook printed before the works, or a GPX track somebody recorded on the old line, will be faithful to a path that may no longer be the path. Where they disagree with fresh waymarks on the ground, the waymarks are the more recent document, and where works have taken the waymarks away, ask.
The Primitivo’s line came to you already decided. Somebody, long before you, chose which side of the valley it takes and which village it passes through. The Pilgrim Age calls that kind of inheritance the argument somebody already won on your behalf.
On twenty pieces of the Primitivo, that argument has been reopened, and this time the traffic has a say.
Twenty new stretches on a route of 263 kilometres is not a new Camino. It is the same Camino, with traffic added to the things that decide where it goes.
None of this is unique to the Primitivo. The same programme has already published new layouts for the Caminos del Norte and the Fisterra–Muxía way, so a Norte walker in 2027 inherits the same caveat. And the last of the seven municipalities, Melide, is where the Primitivo meets the Francés and the quiet ends anyway.
Walk it this winter on the old line, if you are brave about weather and patient about beds. Walk it next year knowing that a few of its corners will be younger than you are.
— Pilgrimages